Once the center of Seoul’s art and music scene, Hyehwa is a neighborhood bursting with creativity and youthful energy. The area is situated in the northeastern part of the capital and is also known as Daehangno, a nickname derived from dehag, or “university,” because of its close proximity to a number of learning institutes. Over …
A helmet-less child and a middle aged man ride up the hill that I’m descending. Their motorcycle suddenly stops in front of me, just next to a closed doorway and the little boy, no older than six, demounts the rumbling bike. The boy bows toward the man. “Kamsa hamneeda,” he thanks his elder before turning …