The rain had let up by the time we got to the spectectulary crappy Chaing Rai hot springs, the first leg of our tour. I snapped a few pictures of the spring, but failed to be impressed. I was also quite chilly at this point, as the weather had cooled down drastically and I had not been prepared with a second layer of clothing. I started to wonder if the remainder of the tour was going to be as bad as this tourist trap. So, after grabbing a cup of instant coffee, we were off to Wat Rong Khun, also known as the White Temple. We had originally been told that our tour would include the ruins of an ancient city, but they changed the itinerary as they picked us up. I was upset about not having been informed, but the White Temple ended up being the highlight of the trip.
Just outside of Chiang Rai, the unusual modern temple was designed and built by artist Chaloemchai Khositphiphat starting in 1998; it has yet to be completed. The temple consists of a captivating white ordination hall, embellished with with silver glittering pieces of mirrors. Upon entering, one walks over a bridge surrounded by eerie hands reaching up from an intended hell. Once past the devil horns on either side, I felt a bit like Atreyu from The Never Ending Story, passing through the Southern Oracle. I obviously watched that movie too many times as a kid to even remember those names, but the twin mythical creatures guarding the bridge to the Nirvana-like interior were strikingly familiar. The architecture was particularly stunning with the gloomy grey sky looming above. Nearby, there were statues of devil heads adorned with bottles of whiskey and cigarettes. The message of the temple was quite clear, but it seems that the architect also had a sense of humor.
Despite this, efforts have been made to boost tourism in this area, as it is surrounded by beautiful scenery. There was much construction being done to create casinos and hotels that will no doubt prove to be profitable. We docked on an island in Laos, but just as we were getting off the boat, the drizzling turned into pouring. I managed to stay under the main pavilion, selling “traditional, hand-made handicrafts,” where I found a specialty of the region: Laos whiskey. Made from rice, this potent drink contains special ingredients said to have health benefits, like everything else in Asia. The two that were available for sample were cobra whisky, believed to enhance male sexual potency, and tiger penis whisky. And these special ingredients were real. And I took a shot of them both. And they were not that bad. Really. The alcohol gave me the courage to brave the rain but I ended up getting my flip-flops caught in the mud with each step, which apparently provided comical entertainment to some nearby men. I gave up and plopped under some shelter to watch life pass by. The rain gave the island a mystical feel: two beggar girls approached tourists for coins, a young boy ran through puddles, laughing, a mother fed her baby. All such everyday occurrences, yet they felt so foreign.
We were treated to an all-you-can-eat buffet and anyone who knows me can imagine that I took full advantage of the mouthwatering curries and fresh vegetables. Even after I was stuffed to the brim, I still managed to grab a few deserts before heading off to the tribal villages. I didn’t know what to expect from these tribal villages, but I was ridiculously excited, as I am such a culture buff. I don’t know how else really to explain this cultural village other than pegging it as a human zoo. As we were guided through the first part of the village, Nancy explained to us the background of each tribe, their lifestyles, and their tribal clothing. These people pretty much sat there as she lectured, hoping to sell one of their handicrafts.
Nancy brought me to each girl, some as young as 5, showing me that they only wear a few rings as young children and continually add more with each year of age. I was informed that their necks do not really extend; instead, the weight of the brass pushes down their collarbones, giving the appearance of an elongated neck. I held one of the coils and they are even heavier than they look. I had read myths that if the rings were removed, their necks would snap off. While their neck muscles are weakened due to lack of use, this is not the case, though it is considered ugly and shameful not to wear the coils. Therefore, when women are found cheating on their husbands, they are punished by having the rings removed. As you can imagine, infidelity is extremely rare amongst the Karen tribe.
An adorable girl from the Karen tribe who was begging for me to take a picture of her- such a little ham!
The ride back to Chiang Mai was a good three and a half hours. At this point, though, the rain had stopped and the sun had come out just in time to cast rays of gold over the incredibly lush and extraordinarily green jungles around me before disappearing behind the horizon. With the captivating views that I was experiencing, the bursts of rain during the day was a fair trade-off.